Saturday, May 11, 2013
Rustic Montana Barns
Sunday, September 18th - - While traveling back north on state road 541, along the Montana Bale Trail, I saw these two barns near the road and just “had” to stop. I love the colors on the weathered siding, especially on the barn on the left. The sun was playing hide and seek with the clouds and a brisk wind was blowing...
Friday, May 10, 2013
Weekend Outlook for SWPA ice climbing
Laura and I went out yesterday to climb a little and check local ice. Here's a photo recap and suggestions for those seeking to climb the best conditions that SWPA has seen so far this season.
South Connellsville Rod and Gun Club
On most years this small privately owned crag forms up some of the best mixed climbing in SWPA. Its always high on my "hit list" when formed up. Current conditions have rarities "in" and ready for takers. It's been a number of years since I've seen these mixed lines look like this. The classic ice lines of NRA, Cave Shot, and Double Barrel need a couple more days of cold to bring them "in". The mixed lines Internet Connection, Alpine Ascent Gully, Cocked and Loadedas well as others are all in good shape. They look at least as good as when the lines were first climbed. New water routes and the recent cold snap has formed up some new unclimbed M lines that will help ease the pain of our dismal season.
Meadow Run and Ohiopyle State Park
Here's some photos of Lower Meadow Run. Its really not "in", but top rope options do exist. Please take care not to destroy barely touched down pillars. As usual the mixed lines are looking good for ascents at any time. Hemlock will go as will the Main Flow. An easy to get to crag with easy rigging. A good option this weekend.
We didn't check Upper Meadow, but I'd bet it has top rope lines to be done.
Victoria Flats would most likely have ice in the Gullies.
The always fun bolted "ice" climb Winter Dutchman at Schoolhouse wall would be a good shot to try as well.
Irishtown
There are some climbs in at Irishtown as well. The Prow is in pretty good shape, Mouth of Madness is out. We climbed Dynamite yesterday and found the topout to be thin despite its appearance. Dirty T is in really good shape, with bolts possibly hiding under the new ice.
SWPA has some ice to be climbed. Better than these areas have seen thus far this season! Hope this helps those of you looking for climbs in SWPA this weekend...
South Connellsville Rod and Gun Club
On most years this small privately owned crag forms up some of the best mixed climbing in SWPA. Its always high on my "hit list" when formed up. Current conditions have rarities "in" and ready for takers. It's been a number of years since I've seen these mixed lines look like this. The classic ice lines of NRA, Cave Shot, and Double Barrel need a couple more days of cold to bring them "in". The mixed lines Internet Connection, Alpine Ascent Gully, Cocked and Loadedas well as others are all in good shape. They look at least as good as when the lines were first climbed. New water routes and the recent cold snap has formed up some new unclimbed M lines that will help ease the pain of our dismal season.
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| This 50M line really caught our eye |
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| Another new formation for |
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| Internet Connection climbs up the center of the photo |
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| Laura below Skymonkey and Internet Connection |
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| Mixed options galore with Skymonkey and Internet Connection on R end. |
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| L to R Cave Shot, NRA, Double Barrel |
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| New untouched lines on the Pistol Whipped Wall |
Meadow Run and Ohiopyle State Park
Here's some photos of Lower Meadow Run. Its really not "in", but top rope options do exist. Please take care not to destroy barely touched down pillars. As usual the mixed lines are looking good for ascents at any time. Hemlock will go as will the Main Flow. An easy to get to crag with easy rigging. A good option this weekend.
We didn't check Upper Meadow, but I'd bet it has top rope lines to be done.
Victoria Flats would most likely have ice in the Gullies.
The always fun bolted "ice" climb Winter Dutchman at Schoolhouse wall would be a good shot to try as well.
 |
| Laura below Anger Management at Lower Meadow Run |
Irishtown
There are some climbs in at Irishtown as well. The Prow is in pretty good shape, Mouth of Madness is out. We climbed Dynamite yesterday and found the topout to be thin despite its appearance. Dirty T is in really good shape, with bolts possibly hiding under the new ice.
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| Dynamite at Irishtown |
SWPA has some ice to be climbed. Better than these areas have seen thus far this season! Hope this helps those of you looking for climbs in SWPA this weekend...
Wednesday, May 8, 2013
Hot, Hot, Hot
The temps are soaring in Washington, and gaining altitude on Mt Rainier is one way to avoid the heat. The last two weeks of July and the first two weeks of August historically mark the highest success rates and most reliable weather for the peak. If you're climbing, leave early, as the freezing level is hovering around 15,000 feet.
Recent mountain achievements include Jason Edwards personal climbing benchmark. Jason successfully made his 300th summit climb of Mt. Rainier on July 12th. Jason joins an elit clan of guides (there are only 6) who have more than 300 summits. The current summit record is held by George Dunn, who has over 480 successful ascents.
In other news, we've updated the route condition reports for the Kautz, DC, and K Spire to name a few. Please keep the updates coming.
Recent mountain achievements include Jason Edwards personal climbing benchmark. Jason successfully made his 300th summit climb of Mt. Rainier on July 12th. Jason joins an elit clan of guides (there are only 6) who have more than 300 summits. The current summit record is held by George Dunn, who has over 480 successful ascents. In other news, we've updated the route condition reports for the Kautz, DC, and K Spire to name a few. Please keep the updates coming.
Seminole Canyon Rock Art
The morning of February 20th I took the guided tour to see some of the “Rock Art” in the canyon. The hike to the site wasn't too bad and it was worth the effort to get there. It was a grayish cloudy day, a little chilly and quite windy.
We had descended into the canyon, and now were going up to where the drawings are located.
The overhang sheltered the drawings for many years. But time and changing environmental conditions have taken their toll.
The tour guide discussing the drawings with one of the group.
This image has been enhanced a little to bring out the faded drawings. It is amazing to consider that these were made several thousand years ago, and that we will likely never know what they meant.
The tour was over by 11:30 and after a brief break for lunch, I left Seminole Canyon at noon.
We had descended into the canyon, and now were going up to where the drawings are located.The overhang sheltered the drawings for many years. But time and changing environmental conditions have taken their toll.The tour guide discussing the drawings with one of the group.This image has been enhanced a little to bring out the faded drawings. It is amazing to consider that these were made several thousand years ago, and that we will likely never know what they meant.The tour was over by 11:30 and after a brief break for lunch, I left Seminole Canyon at noon.
Saturday, May 4, 2013
Simple solutions, leash, sock and picks
When I start thinking I know what I am doing I usually get a lesson in humility.
Umbilicals? To connect the umbilical to the tools we have mini lockers, flat steel wire gates and a host of do-it-yourself solutions with all offer varying amounts of success. How hard does it really need to be? Not very it seems. For the home made ones just tie a big loop in the end and do the same. Easy on and off for the alpine where you may want to remove the umbilical all together. Thanks Jim for pointing out that obvious solution to my my overly jaded imagination.
Boots that don't fit perfectly? Feet a little different in size? Not unusual for most folks.
How about using different thickness sock on each foot? It might just be the simple fix you require to get a better fit. Not one I have needed but so simple when it was pointed out to me I had to say, "duuuu, of course!" It is at least worth a try. Thanks for that idea!
Another one that seemed to escape me and most of my climbing mates. Sharpening tools? For most things including vertical ice and the majority of alpine mixed a razor sharp pick isn't required. In fact it is just a waste of good steel (and your hard earned cash) to always be sharpening and resharpening your picks.
I know, BTDT myself on numerous occasions. And until now I am generally loath to go on anything I think is difficult without a set of "properly sharpened" picks. This spring I decided to see just how much difference it really makes. Short of super cold or old hard and brittle ice I suspect it doesn't matter much. Now I intentionally sharpen my picks differently.
I think the ability to hook the tools easily is equally important as getting the initial stick.
With the best of the new tools hooking is easy and secure. Which allows us to worry less about the condition of the pick's tip. Much as we want to think it really does and I have been convinced it does for years.
Pick at the left is now 3.3mm and the newer one on the right is 3.1mm
The difference in how the picks actually climb in the majority of terrain I use them on is nil.
To make a point the two sets of picks below started out new and got some use.
The pair above was used on the first ascent of Dracula, Mt Foraker.
This pair was used on a solo ascent of the Cassin, Denali
As I said unless it is really hard and cold or just old ice the pick can be pretty well worn and still very usable. More so than you might first think. Certainly on a lot of the mixed we do by simply hooking you don't need a razor's edge on your pick. The first time you miss judge a placement and slam the pick into rock you'll end up with a dull edge anyway. The cutting edge of a splitting maul will last a lot longer than that of a scalpel. Each has their own place in the tool box. Best to know which you need for your specific job.
I still have picks I haven't touched with a file that get used on fat Canadian ice. Going a full season there without intentionally hitting rock is not unusual. They start out sharp from the factory and stay that way if I pay attention. I also have the pair of picks I climbed on in Chamonix last winter. Down into the teeth on those simply from wear on the hard granite and old black gully ice there. One is the rounded and shortened pick seen in the first picture. The pair look remarkably the same.
I used that pair of picks on several pure ice climbs this spring including the scariest lead I have been on in a while. Sticks are easy in the spring time slush :) The shape of my picks never once entered my mind.
Umbilicals? To connect the umbilical to the tools we have mini lockers, flat steel wire gates and a host of do-it-yourself solutions with all offer varying amounts of success. How hard does it really need to be? Not very it seems. For the home made ones just tie a big loop in the end and do the same. Easy on and off for the alpine where you may want to remove the umbilical all together. Thanks Jim for pointing out that obvious solution to my my overly jaded imagination.
Boots that don't fit perfectly? Feet a little different in size? Not unusual for most folks.
How about using different thickness sock on each foot? It might just be the simple fix you require to get a better fit. Not one I have needed but so simple when it was pointed out to me I had to say, "duuuu, of course!" It is at least worth a try. Thanks for that idea!
Another one that seemed to escape me and most of my climbing mates. Sharpening tools? For most things including vertical ice and the majority of alpine mixed a razor sharp pick isn't required. In fact it is just a waste of good steel (and your hard earned cash) to always be sharpening and resharpening your picks.
I know, BTDT myself on numerous occasions. And until now I am generally loath to go on anything I think is difficult without a set of "properly sharpened" picks. This spring I decided to see just how much difference it really makes. Short of super cold or old hard and brittle ice I suspect it doesn't matter much. Now I intentionally sharpen my picks differently.
I think the ability to hook the tools easily is equally important as getting the initial stick.
With the best of the new tools hooking is easy and secure. Which allows us to worry less about the condition of the pick's tip. Much as we want to think it really does and I have been convinced it does for years.
Pick at the left is now 3.3mm and the newer one on the right is 3.1mm
The difference in how the picks actually climb in the majority of terrain I use them on is nil.
To make a point the two sets of picks below started out new and got some use.
The pair above was used on the first ascent of Dracula, Mt Foraker.
This pair was used on a solo ascent of the Cassin, Denali
As I said unless it is really hard and cold or just old ice the pick can be pretty well worn and still very usable. More so than you might first think. Certainly on a lot of the mixed we do by simply hooking you don't need a razor's edge on your pick. The first time you miss judge a placement and slam the pick into rock you'll end up with a dull edge anyway. The cutting edge of a splitting maul will last a lot longer than that of a scalpel. Each has their own place in the tool box. Best to know which you need for your specific job.
I still have picks I haven't touched with a file that get used on fat Canadian ice. Going a full season there without intentionally hitting rock is not unusual. They start out sharp from the factory and stay that way if I pay attention. I also have the pair of picks I climbed on in Chamonix last winter. Down into the teeth on those simply from wear on the hard granite and old black gully ice there. One is the rounded and shortened pick seen in the first picture. The pair look remarkably the same.
I used that pair of picks on several pure ice climbs this spring including the scariest lead I have been on in a while. Sticks are easy in the spring time slush :) The shape of my picks never once entered my mind.
Friday, May 3, 2013
First Storm of the Season
Today California is being hit by the first storm of the season. After five months without rain, the wet season has finally begun. The powerful storm impacting the state today has the potential to drop up to eight inches of rain in spots. Here in San Luis Obispo, the rain is falling in drenching, wind-blown sheets.The photos here show colorful poison oak leaves in Poly Canyon and the now-flowing Brizzolara Creek.
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