Wild Flowers

Two different white wild flowers that we have in our yard. These guys are some of the few that really seem to like the dry sandy soil we have.

A mountain of maintenance

I've been wondering about the upper mountain. It must be snowing up there today, because the temperatures are much cooler here in Longmire. The Camp Muir and Paradise weather stations are both offline... Perhaps they are casualties of the intermittent disruption of power, phone and internet. I do know this: there was 7 inches of snow on the ground at Paradise yesterday, and I can see a snowline at 3,500 feet today.

I am also wondering about all that rain on the glacier. I have a feeling that at some elevations, the rain turned the glacier into hard/bulletproof ice when the temperature dropped. Here is the Nisqually Glacier from the air, taken on Wednesday.

It has been raining steadily today, but the river flow and currents have remained normal. Access to the backcountry and mountain is dependent upon repairing the park's infrastructure. A lot of cranes, dozers, and dump trucks will be needed to re-sculpt the land for roads and sewer systems. Like today, I saw a large crane moving rock in the Nisqually River in order to help protect a historic cabin, road and treatment plant. But it's not everyday you see this sort of thing in a national park.

There was another spate of articles online at MSNBC and in the local papers about the park closure and flood damage. The big pieces were in the News Tribune, Seattle Times and the Yakima Herald. In the meantime, let there be colder temps and stable weather.

Summer OR wrap up?

Rafal has done a nice job covering most of the alpine climber'sinterests. (look at the link below) It is summer after all, not much new for the alpine. But what is new is pretty exciting. Look for indepth field tests and written reviews on almost everything Rafal has mentioned ASAP.The idea is to get the word out before the first big freeze of fall. The Salewa Pro Gaiter and the third generation Batura (they call it #2 but thatis incorrect) will be up first It should be a good comparison. Gen. three La Sportiva against the new kid on the block for technicalMtn boots,Salewa.



The new Lynx crampon from Petzl looks even better in person than on paper. Those I already know I want! Big raves from the last year's prototypes I am told. Just too many options to ignore in the new design that no one had yet put in a single package, until now. And a reasonable retail of $240. Not the $300+ I was first quoted, thank goodness! Petzl has upped the game again by all accounts.



My list of winners is La Sportiva'snewest Batura, Petzl of course ( new 'pons and the Nomic and Ergo are BACK!) as always and the new blushing bride, Salewa's alpine boots are hopeful.







Rafal, thanks for a well written, detailedupdate.



http://rafalandronowski.wordpress.com//08/07/or-summer-market--report/

Ursa Americanus at Ingraham Flats

On Saturday, we heard about a black bear near Cathedral Rocks... Today, the person who photographed that bear wrote.

More about the climbing bear from David Gutzman of UT.

"We were approaching Ingraham Flats when we heard some rock fall... we looked and saw what we thought was a large, odd shaped rock tumble down a hundred feet onto the glacier. To our surprise the rock got up , shook itself, took one look at us and took off..."

David shot a few images and shared them. Wildlife high on Rainier isn't entirely unheard of, but it's certainly a rare treat to encounter something like a bear at 11,100 feet.

David continued, "[The bear] ran full speed uphill (through deep snow) across the... Ingraham and looked like it was heading towards the Emmons Glacier, all the time glancing our way."

On the climbing front, the weather finally cleared some today... but more snow is forecasted for the week. Let's see if this snow will settle.

Rough Start to - 3 fatalities

2007 has become a dangerous year at Mount Rainier, even with the roads closed. Since mid-February, there have been three fatalities within the park boundary, a terrible trend as the park prepares to reopen this spring.

The first incident involved a skier who ducked a ropeline at Crystal Mountain Resort for backcountry turns. The intent was to catch fresh tracks down the White River drainage (and into the park). That skier was caught and killed in an avalanche and the Crystal Mountain Ski Patrol recovered the body.

The most recent accident involved a married couple who drowned in Ipsut Creek. The pair were crossing a footlog when Annette Blakely slipped, fell, and was quickly swept downstream in the frigid current. Her husband, Robert, immediately shed his backpack and leaped into the stream in an attempt to save her life. Sadly, both were caught in a log jam and drowned.

The News Tribune, Seattle Times, and Seattle PI have been covering the accident and recovery in detail, but a few details have emerged in the stories that are inaccurate. Some are minor, for example, a helicopter did not spot the body from the air. Another, however, is misleading. That is that the footlog to get across the washout was clearly established and marked. Here in this photo, you can see the two foot logs in question. The lower log was the one where the accident occurred, the upper is the preferred log to cross...

An accurate point about all of this is that the park, the roads, and the trail system are in very rough condition. With so much damage, climbers, backpackers, skiers and hikers will need to take extra precautions when visiting this spring and summer. Normally minor incidents in places like Ipsut Creek will be more difficult to respond to and manage.

As for the latest recovery, my thoughts are with the family and friends of the Blakely's. I would also like to thank the Pierce County Swiftwater Rescue team (and the bomb team, the dive team, and the SAR team too) for the outstanding assistance in this incident. In the image above, the field operations leader views the screen of an underwater camera.

Mt. Rainier, Lower Nisqually Glacier

Foursquare Mountaineering took a trip up to Mt. Rainier to have some fun and hone our mountaineering skills. We set out to find the biggest, baddest crevasse on the lower Nisqually Glacier. We found it! It had deep vertical walls made of hard ice. It was topped off with a layer of last winter's soft snow. We spent the day rappelling, ice climbing, prusiking and setting up a z-pulley rescue system.



The first thing we did was set up a few bombproof anchors and safety lines. Dan, Dennis, Jim and Caroline.

Dennis, Jim and Doug watching Dave finish his climb up from the bottom.



Jim rappelling into the abyss.

Dan moving up the rope with ascenders.



We even managed to find a snow bridge on the way out.




It was good to spend the day up on the mountain with friends. Now some of those harder routes on Rainier seem just a little bit easier and if one of us falls into a hidden crevasse, we will all know what to do.

Walk in the Snow