Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier

We made the long drive up to the northwest corner of the state to climb Mt. Olympus. It is located deep in the Hoh Rain Forest. The climb involves a round trip hike of 45 miles with an elevation gain of 8,000'.



There were huge, moss covered Douglas Fir, Cedar, Spruce and Hemlock trees everywhere.



Elk Lake at the 15 mile mark.





This cable ladder was put in place to help climbers cross an avalanche chute just before the camp at Glacier Meadows.





The Blue Glacier as seen from the lateral moraine. The true summit is the farthest peak in the middle of the picture. Snow Dome is on the right.





Doug and Dave on the summit in our rain gear. It rained for about an hour when we first started up the glacier. We had traveled and hiked way to far to turn around because of rain! The sun even came out later that morning.



The view from the summit looking down on Snow Dome and the Blue Glacier.






The lower part of the glacier is a square mile of hard ice. It is covered with hundreds of small icy streams. They usually disappear into a hole or crevasse on the glacier.



It would have been easy to spend an entire day there exploring that part of the mountain. We had to walk on the high spots to stay dry.




We made our way back down the moraine to Glacier Meadows where the biting flies convinced us to start the hike out to the car. The next day, we stopped at the beach for a while and then started the long drive home. It was nice to accomplish another climb that had been on our "to do" list for a while.

Kitten in a TrashCan

Phend-Fisher Family Reunion Ledger (1938)

The 29th annual reunion of the Phend family was held in the Nappanee community Park, August 28th 1938.

Reunion will be held in Nappanee again next year.

A motion was made to retain same pres for another year. "Henry Phend"
Fred Ernest - Vice Pres.
Bob Bechtel - Sec'y Treas.
Mrs. Cecil Phend - Entertainment Com.

Reservation will be made for the pavilion for next year.

Bal on hand .87
Coll. 3.11
[balance] 3.98

Births this year
Judith Alice Phend daughter of Donald & Henretta

Total 3.98
Park fee 2.00
Notices .87
Bal. 1.11

Rowdy Hotel Guests

Photo of old ship's bell on the warf in a small park.


After deciding to spend the night in Port Angeles we had a bit of trouble finding a hotel. We finally did and it was a nice hotel, or would have been if it hadn't been for the other guests being so rowdy, noisy, and just down right rude. My thanks to the hotel staff that did their best to keep an obnoxious bunch of boys under control when the chaperons of the boys decided to let them take over the hotel. I think they were a group of some sort of ball players - baseball, basketball, football- who knows. I'm not good at ballgame sports. My son was into cars, horses, and snowmobiles. The boys took over the swimming pool (which was fine, boys do need to run off excess energy) but they then decided to try to run all the adults out of the hot tub. That was just down right rude. And their chaperons didn't seem to care. Thankfully someone complained to the manager who made them get out, but as soon as it would be empty, in they would go again, not allowing any adults time in the hot tub. These same hooligans played ball in the parking lot, throwing balls against other peoples cars, and the next morning at the breakfast bar they tried to take everything offered by the hotel, not allowing other guests to have their share. Again,my thanks to the hotel staff for doing the best they could under these circumstances. We did have a nice room with comfortable beds and got a good nights sleep.

More on leashless gloves

My Outdoor Research, Verts, after 50+ pitches of water ice and dbl rope rappels. Seams, material and leather palms still intact and still good to go after some literally smoking raps on thin, twin ropes.







I keep being reminded how a really lwt, breathable and not water proof glove like the OR Vert performed this winter on Canadian ice. The longer climb I did where the gloves where soaked through and my boots filled with water while rapping down comes to mind. I was able to literally wring the gloves out twice on route and put them back on. As the sun went down I was prepared for the worse and ready to pull a dry pair of gloves out of the pack when I got a chance but half way down the decent I noticed the Vert gloves were warm and dry again. "Amazed", isn't too strong of word.

So may be being water proof isn't such a big deal in radically changing conditions and may be getting the gloves dried out while still in the field is even more important. For those that can remember back that far the wool Dachsteins come to mind as a mitt that never failed, no matter what the conditions were. They did breath and they were not water proof. They are a hard act to follow actually when I think back on it. Every water proof glove to date I've used just gets wet from my perspiration and have been very difficult to dry out. More food for thought for glove choices.

I have also found out recently that both OR and Mtn Hardware offer "lifetime" guarantees on their gloves. A guarantee I tested this week with Mtn Hardware. Money well spent on any of these gloves imo.

Here are two more models that I am now using and easily fit into my glove selection and my criteria from the previous post on leashless gloves.

"My list of features for a good glove?
Leather palms and fingers, Shoeller material in the glove body, nose wipe, medium to long, well tailored, wrist cuff. Both finger and cuff hangers and preferably a low profile velcro seal on the cuff and wrist. Or at least a better elastic draw cord arrangement than what is common in most everyone's design. Easy to turn inside out to dry....or at least easy to dry. Thin removable liners might even be better if you could minimise the bulk. And most importantly FLAT SEAMS on the bottom of the little finger and hopefully those seams on the side, not the bottom of the finger. Seams there, when climbing leashless, will make your life miserable in the extreme."

Either could easily become a favorite with the other three climbing gloves I am using. Mtn H's Torsion is certainly a best buy money wise if you buy into the non water proof glove idea.

They also fit my personal want list very closely, hitting every point except drying easily. But easy enough.

Mtn Hardware Torsion retails for $60. Little more insulation/bulk than the OR Vert and a much better cuff. More insulation means they are a little harder to dry out. A very nice glove.

Mtn H's spiel:
"Torsion Glove
A snug soft shell glove for alpine climbing. Articulated cut for excellent dexterity, with flatlock seams for a comfortable fit. Durable, water-resistant goatskin palm and fingers stand up to rock or ice.
Alpine Climbing / Mountaineering
Weight 3 oz. / 98 g.
Lining Brushed Tricot
Body Deflection™ Soft Shell
Palm Material Water-resistant Goatskin Leather
"

These are the OR Storm Tracker glove. $69 retail. Thin glove and maybe better dexterity than the Vert. Nice cuff length even with the added hassle of the zipper. A little steep price wise compared to the other lwts but these guys rock as a technical climbing glove. Durability my be a question so we'll see if that O.R. "INFINITE..guaranteed FOREVER works" :)

OR's spiel:
•Intended Usage: Versatile backcountry work glove for ultimate dexterity
Breathable/water-resistant WindStopper Soft Shell fabric; tricot lined
•Full leather palm
•MotionWrap AT construction for added dexterity
•Elasticized wrist chili
•Gusseted entry with locking zipper

Arcteryx Atom LT Hoody....just how good is it?

Jim asked, "You have mentioned that you use the Atom LT. I looked at one in the store and really liked it, but two things stopped me.



What is with the stretch side panels? I haven't seen this on any other parka. Seems like this would cost warmth with little upside.



No hood adjustment at all. WTF? Seems like this would be a huge PITA. Doesn't this make the hood next to useless?"





Yes the Atom LT is one of my main stay pieces for cold weather climbing. And one of my betterinvestmentsin awhile for my own gear. I have and use two of them constantly. The vents are critical for using this jacket/sweater and do allow you to use a super light weight (as in .oz) insulated garment that is a lotwarmer for the weight than anything else I can think of, because it breathes so well. Wild Things and Mtn Hardware have now copied the technology/design fortheir own versions. Hood is actually very good! No issue what so ever and easily fits over a helmet. It is extremely user friendly in fact.



The down sides? The shell materialdoesn't fair well rolling around on hard mixed. Rock climbing, chimney and off width,willshred them pretty easily. Soft shells are the weapon of choice there.

The stretch panels? They aren't very wind resistant. A lwt wind shirt under the Atom Lt will up the warmth in a cold wind. But the Atom is still no belay jacket imo. It is a climbing garment not a belay garment in cold weather. Think sweater, not jacket. The zipper? I had it pointed out to me that the zipper has no lock on it. Intentional by design to make it last longer I was told. I'd been using the Atom Ltfor a year before I realised this fact. Read it actually. Loaned a buddy one of my spare Atom Lts and he hated the zipper. I have never, ever noticed it. So no down side for me at all. But worth knowing.



And the Atom LT can be used as a mid layer easy enough in the rock climbingsituation to beef up the temps a soft shell can be used in with some comfort. The Atom LT's pattern and trim fit help there. It isn't the most intuitive way to layer (with a wind short or soft shell) but it works for certain projects.



Weight comparisons?



Lightly insulated jackets (belay sweaters) and shells:



EB Downlight Hoodie Pullover XL 15.4 oz 455g

EB Frontpoint XL 18.5oz 547g

Arcteryx Atom lt Hoody large 14.4oz 429g

Arcteryx Atom Hoody SV 19.0 oz 562g

Mtn Hardware Compressor Hoody 19.8oz 586g

Arcteryx Gamma MX Hoody XL 24oz 710g

Arcteryx Squamish pullover XL 5.6oz 166g



On that list only theCompressor, Atom SV and EB Down Hoody are warmer. All are a tiny bit heavier and generally too warm to climb in alone as the 2nd layer because.....they don't breath nearly as well as the Atom LT. I will most typicallyadd any of those threeas a thirdlayer when belaying or for climbing (more likely descending) when it is really cold out or the wind comes up.





It is a green Atom Lt in thispicture with the black Compressor Hoodyjacket used as my belay jacket over it. Pretty cold belaying in this picture and then again, I peeled the Compressor and just climbed in the Atom LT and a R1 hoody.







The Atom lt can be a mid layer for warmth. But I use it generally as a outer shell garment for cold weather climbing when I am very active. I no longer use a mid layer Some type of Hoody on the skin, likely a SAG Khushi, NWAlpine Hoody or R1. Then my 2nd layer, generally a Atom LT or a shell garment like the EB Frontpoint or a soft shellArcteryx Gamma MX. The Atom LT(or anything similarin weight like the Nano Puff) is NOT a belay jacket...more a "belay sweater" and not that warm in the grand scheme of things if you are going to use it like that. Which I do if the temps permit it.



More here on what I think is a better layering system.



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//11/winter-layers.html



In the Ice fields late Nov. Good wind blowing while we discuss the avi conditions.



The Joke Slinger in his Atom LT at -20 something when the extra venting under the arms is crucial.





Another pretty cold dayand in the shade. But that is the point, the Atom LT allows you to climb in relative comfort (and it was "relative comfort" onthis day in lwt single boots) on some pretty cold days.



More here on the idea of a climbing sweater.



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//12/climbing-sweater.html

Greetings from KenTennMissAla

After leaving Vevay a week ago, I spent the night at Clifty Falls State Park near Madison, Indiana. The next morning I crossed the Ohio River into Kentucky and took a meandering route to Mammoth Cave National Park. I had been there before. Many, many years ago. The weather was fantastic with sunshine, blue skies and temperatures in the 70s – a rather late “Indian Summer” but one I was quite happy to experience! I took one of the cave tours but mostly just spent time walking in the woods and being lazy around the campground, enjoying the gorgeous weather. After three nights there, and with the weather changing, I slowly made my way towards Shiloh National Battlefield in southern Tennessee (near the borders of Mississippi and Alabama).

It rained most of the day at Shiloh. It was the third time I had visited the Battlefield and each time it has rained... I think it adds to the ambiance. Walking along the “Sunken Road” where so many men lost their lives is rather sobering.

The drive through northeast Mississippi on the country roads was beautiful. Lots of hills and trees all the way through southern Indiana to northern Alabama. A surprisingly number of colorful leaves still on the trees. Rain off and on the past three days. But the sun has come out and has burned off the fog... it's time to move on down the road, still going south...

These photos were taken this morning at Lake Lurleen State Park, a few miles northwest of Tuscaloosa, Alabama. It was foggy and a brisk 36 degrees. My hands were freezing after half an hour, but I think it was worth it!

Autumn is Coming...

As we push into late August the first signs of fall are starting to show themselves. Returning clouds, crisp days leading to cold nights, and fewer climbers are a familiar scene this time of year. We actually had some snowflakes fall on rangers the past couple of days, but the report from Muir today was of sunny skies, gentle breezes, and cool fall temperatures.

September is still a great month to climb, one of my favorites actually. Although the weather can be variable, it is still very pleasant for the most part. Climbing in September can also lead to a lot more solitude on a mountain where that is sometimes hard to find. Routes like the Emmons and the Kautz, which can be extremely busy during mid-summer, turn into full-on wilderness experiences in September. Something very notable about this year that is different from previous ones is that the routes still have a lot more snow on them than normally would be present in late August. This means instead of climbing glacial skeleton and having to wind around what may seem like endless fields of huge crevasses to reach the summit, climbers are treated to what can only be described as excellent climbing!

There are a few changes coming in the next couple of weeks of which climbers should be aware. One is that the ranger stations where you register to climb will no longer be open on their summer hours. After Labor Day the Longmire WIC, White River WIC and the Climbing Information Center will all still be open but on a more limited basis. Stay tuned for the exact hours,which we will be posting as we get confirmation on the schedules. Climbing rangers will be around throughout September, but on a more limited basis. So make sure to get your urgent questions answered by a ranger when you register.

Come on out and enjoy this next season change on Rainier. There is still a lot of climbing to be done, and watching the leaves change color from 14,000' is a pretty spectacular sight!

Mt. Rainier, DC

Starting the climb in fresh snow.



Taking a break.
















Mt. Adams and the Tatoosh Range.







Tent city on the Cowlitz Glacier at Camp Muir.









Camp Muir above a sea of clouds with Mount Adams in background.




Sunrise with Little Tahoma on the right. Mount Stuart Range on the left.



Ascending Disappointment Cleaver.




The Ingraham Ice Fall.






Bethany's high point. The top of Disappointment Cleaver at 12,300'! Gibraltar Rock and Mt. Adams in the background.











Four of the finest on top of Rainier!(Jim, Mark, Theresa and Dave)




Descending Disappointment Cleaver. The tiny dots, at the top center, are tents at Ingraham Flats.

Slip slidin' away

A brief glimpse of sun at the turnpike turn around

The last couple days have been sloppy here in the Laurel Highlands. Copious amounts of rain have saturated the area leaving rocks unclimbable and the trails a soupy mess. Long sections of trail are completely submerged others are currently swamped. Don't get me wrong, running a few hours in the rain is no big deal and usually quite refreshing on hot, humid days. Unfortunately the downside to rain is that it sometimes comes accompanied by dangerous thunder and lightning storms. Personally I've been caught in a few truly scary storms. Mostly on the trail or rock, hours from the car. The whole time feeling vulnerable, helpless and scared shitless. I've obviously survived the experiences. When threats of bad weather are present when trying to get out, my mind races to thoughts of two friends killed by lightning on a mountaineering trip some years ago. Is the risk of getting struck that high or were they in the wrong place at the wrong time? I guess those thoughts and experiences are what had me scrutinizing the radar images the last couple of days. I was an armchair meteorologist watching for gaps between storms that provided time to squeeze in a couple wet, but storm-free runs.




Friday 6/28. Route 31 trail head to the turnpike bridge and back, 11.5 miles. 2:02:10, Elevation: gain 1,974', loss 1,971'.

It rained on me most of the way, with the exception of a few minutes when I was able to snap the picture of the turnpike bridge above. Passed one (saturated) couple on tunnel road heading to Rt. 31 shelters for the night. Really humid, lots of water needed consuming after this one.




Saturday 6/29 Route 653 trail head to Grindle Ridge shelters and back, 11.5 miles. 2:07:34, Elevation: gain 905', loss 908'.

Ran accompanied by "Granola" our 4 legged, trail loving, machine. He usually comes with me on easy training days under 15 miles. He's a great pacer and always makes new trail friends along the way. Today we met a family of 5 on an out and back to Bear Rocks, a group of scouts from McCandless and afather and son spending a few days training for a Philmontscouting trip. Granola seems to put a smile on everyone's face... Keep an eye out for us on the local trails (usually you'll meet him first). Below is a picture of him after his run today, tired and content to be back at the car. The trail wasn't as bad as yesterday, but still a mess. Downed trees were plentiful from the high winds during the recent storms. Ran with only a few brief periods of rain. I managed a seriously painful rock kicking that had me stop and wince a few minutes (luckily near the end). I also managed a spectacular fall from a downed tree that I was scrambling over (after the rock kicking). A few squirrels chuckled at my failed "cat like reflexes"... Trail runner my ass! they declared as I hobbled hobbled up the hill. Run miles, climb often and always ignore the rude squirrel comments! They'll most likely end up as hawk dinner...

Today was a good day! "Granola" post run

Independence

Some of the fireworks in Tahoe City, California on the 4th of July.

Avalanches and Prestigious Awards

Before we get to the fun stuff, I need to mention that the temperatures are going to really heat up later this week and possibly into the weekend. If you’re coming to Mount Rainier, be very careful around (or avoid altogether) steep snow slopes and glacial icefalls. As the freezing level climbs above 10K, the avalanche hazard is likely to SOAR. We’ve had over 900 inches of snowfall this winter and spring and you don’t want to be caught under it as summer returns for a few days.

So do you remember Phill Michael? He was the Canadian climber who helped those lost hikers on the Muir Snowfield last fall. Well, his actions earned recognition from the Secretary of the Interior. Here is the press release about his actions, the award and a picture from today’s ceremony. Great job, Phill! You can find more about Phill, this story and his other adventures at secretspot.net! He also discusses the incident in a radio interview.

Skills, Experience and Compassion earn Canadian Citizen the Department of Interior’s Award for Bravery

Mount Rainier is recognized for its inclement and hazardous weather. The Muir Snowfield on Mount Rainier is noted for its hidden crevasses and cliffs; hazards that have claimed the lives of many day hikers, skiers and climbers. A night without shelter while lost on the snowfield often ends tragically.

Preparedness, skills and experience are critical prerequisites for any climber venturing onto the mountain’s often treacherous upper slopes. At any time of the year the weather can change suddenly creating dangerous conditions. It is imperative that climbers begin their climb prepared to wait out the weather if it becomes necessary. Being prepared can mean the difference between life and death on the upper mountain and can help save the lives of others. Phill Michael came prepared to climb the mountain and ended up saving the lives of two backpackers who were not prepared to overnight in the challenging environment typical of the upper mountain.

If not for the skill, preparedness and efforts of Phill Michael, it is likely that the two backpackers would have perished. All too often, the story of lost hikers on Mount Rainier ends sadly. Phill Michael’s actions and preparedness directly resulted in the saving of two visitors on Mount Rainier. For these efforts, the National Park Service awarded Mr. Michael its Citizen’s Award for Bravery.

On September 16th 2007, climber Phill Michael was descending from Camp Muir during a storm when he came upon two visitors who were lost and ill prepared. That couple was also descending from Camp Muir, but found themselves disoriented and without shelter in one of Mount Rainier’s most notoriously dangerous locations. While descending, Mr. Michael heard distressed voices and moved in their direction. The path back to Paradise was completely obscured and it was quite foggy, rainy and windy. After following the voices, Mr. Michael soon located the two backpackers. At that time, the couple was in despair as they had no way to reorient themselves, navigate off the mountain or provide shelter. Mr. Michael used his equipment, skills and abilities as an experienced guide to erect a shelter out of his tarp and care for the two lost backpackers. Over the following 48 hours, Michael attended to the couple while the snow, wind, and rain continually threatened. During a brief respite from the storm on day three, Mr. Michael was able to reorient the team and descend safely back to the Paradise.