Coast Live Oak

Coast Live Oak, originally uploaded by ParsecTraveller.

Here's an example of the coast live oak, a rustic and beautiful California tree. This one, in the hills above Cal Poly, marked the beginning of a small grove of the trees. You can find them all over the California coast ranges.

Freedom

It's time to celebrate! To have cookouts, fireworks, picnics, camping trips, parades, speeches, car shows, rodeos, pet shows, horseback rides, or just sit around our homes and yards with family and friends, or even all by ourselves and enjoy the life we have in all of our 50 wonderful states.
But let us not forget the men and women that protect us and give their lives for us so that we can have the freedoms and life that we have in our wonderful United States of America.

Apache Plume

Desert bushs that we call Apache Plume were in bloom. The first photo is of the small white flower. The second photo is of the seed pod which gives the plant its name, Plume.

Clothing layers in the Outdoors?

Clothing Layers?

This is a post from Feb of '10 . But
as the seasons and gear options changeI thought it worth re posting
again.







(or in this case lack of layers)





I
was lucky enough to spend the last week ice climbing around Banff and on the Icefield's Parkway in
Alberta Canada. Places I have climbed and skied in most winters for
years.



Besides the obvious high quality ice climbing I was really looking
forward to field testing some new (for me anyway) pieces of clothing and ideas
on cold weather use.



But before I get to what I used on this trip and the
results, let me back up a bit and tell you what I have used in years previously
and have been happy with generally.



The coldest temps we would actually
climb in hover around -25/-30C (-22F). Anything colder and I retreat to a
shelter, hot springs and good food. Not uncommon to see

+10C (50F) on calm
days in the sun on sheltered ice climbs.









Base layers?

Generally Merino wool
or Capilene, two
piece set ups and one piece union suits depending on the temperatures. Some
times even those would get layered.



Mid layer/insulation ?

Pile. Pick
your weight and material but generally some sort of pile gear. Pile pants and
pile shirts or sweaters.



Outer layer/ protection?

Early on it was
nylon shells, then Goretex and then Shoeller style soft shells of wool/spandex (25
years ago) and more recently synthetics (Shoeller and its copies) with real 4
way stretch.



Boots were singles and dbls. Often times with Supergators on the singles
and even the dbls
when required.



Gloves/Mitts?



Old stand-bys were boiled wool Dachsteins with/without over mitts. My favorite
were Dachsteins and
Helly Hansen over mitts and when
required a foam pad between the layers to keep your hands from getting too beat
up with straight shafted tools. Dachstein gloves had their place as well...but
generally considered a luxury. Goretex shelled gauntlet gloves with thick pile
liner came next and have remained a standard with leashed tools.



Leashed
tools? Leashless
tools? Here is where much of the info I am relating splits. True leashless tools like the
newest BD Cobra and
Fusion or the Petzl
Nomic and Quarks
have in many ways redefined what we use for clothing on ice/mixed climbs. Gear
that easily works leashless will NOT be warm enough, in my
experience, for leashed climbing.



OK..back to the clothing
systems.



An old saying I heard as a kid was, "Eskimos never sweat." The
thought behind that? It was just too cold in an Arctic environment to ever risk
getting wet, soaking your insulation and then having that insulation freeze.
Makes sense, but how do you ever get anything done and not sweat if you are
working hard and trying to climb fast?



(I'm about to repeat info now that
can be better understood by reading Mark Twight's and Will Gadd's ice climbing/technique
books)



Obviously you'll sweat on the approach unless you really back off
the pace. I don't do approaches longer than just a few minutes in my climbing
upper layer. I dress really lightly on the top layer for the walk in and then
dry off and change to dry clothes at the base of the climbing.



To stay
dry I use a belay sweater/jacket (depending on insulation required by the temps)
to let my body heat dry me off and keep me warm while drying out at the belay if
I have broken a sweat climbing. Better yet climb with a light enough and
breathable enough set of clothing that you don't wet your body or gear on
anything but the hardest leads. It is a tough balancing act.



Light
enough...breathable enough?



Four words that are saying a lot! You need to
push the definition of both imo.



I switched a few years ago to all
Shoeller style
clothing. But unbelieving in just how far I really needed to go I bought all the
gear in a insulated form. To be specific Arteryx Gamma MX hoody and pants. I have worn out a set of both
over time. And I still love both of them for climbing. But for everything but
the very coldest weather (below -20C) I find that material (Polartec Power Shield in
the Gamma MX line) to be too much now.



Why too much? Too heavy
physically, too warm and not breathable enough.



OK, you ask, "WTF, Dane?" "That is a
$400 piece of kit (Gamma MX Hoody) you encouraged me to buy last year and
now you are telling me it is rubbish?...too warm?...too heavy?"



Last year
I thought the Gamma MX hoody would be the one piece of clothing I
would always take on alpine/ice routes. Now I am saying it is too much?
Yes....but don't throw it away just yet :)











You need to go back to the idea
that "cool muscles work more efficiently".



Mind you it might take you a
bit of effort to find out just how "cool" you are willing to work at to make
this all work. That might include a trip where you dress too light and freeze
your ass off to find out just how "cool" you'll want to be :) I'd suggest you
make that trip, a low risk, high energy event. If you blow it bad on the
clothing combos at least movement will generally keep you warm. You need to iron
out your system in a fairly controlled environment.



The rewards are worth
the risk imo. But to
be sure, blow these combinations in a big way and cold injury is almost certain
or even death will be the end result. I have used the system at a fine edge half
a dozen times now and I had significant performance and recovery break through
each time. I also look back and thank my lucky stars that there was no
"incident" on those climbs that could have easily precipitated a disaster. An
unplanned night out in bad weather while cutting it close on gear can be more
than just uncomfortable.



The results of 24 unplanned hrs out in 10F
temps? A full year of recovery.















Here are my current
thoughts on winter clothing systems. Limit the layers. Yes, limit the layers!
The first picture in this post is me climbing early in my career in mostly wool,
with temps rapidly going to -40 as the sun went down. It was pretty miserable at
the time and to be honest a little scary. I had never been in such temps and
that exposed before.







But a couple of things made a big
difference. I was mobile, light layers made that possible. I was dry internally
because the clothing breathed well and so I stayed warm if I kept moving. Funny
now because I realised as I typed this morning that the clothing pictured there
(circa 1973) would be a perfect set up for leashless climbing now in very cold temps...say
-20C but not at

-40C :)





So limit the layers and stay mobile. Easy
to do now with modern clothing.







Layer One:







I am
using a R1 Hoody
inner layer. MEC
makes R1 tops and bottoms for something like $60 retail. Or you can buy
Patagonia's for $150. Same exact material and in several ways the MEC clothing is better
designed imo. Now
there is a easy decision?!







Yep, just the R1 and nothing between
it and my skin. Although my lowers are actually Costco longs...almost expedition
weight but some brand name called "Paradox". The R1 seems to be just a bit much
on my legs and I lose some mobility compared to the Paradox lowers (in a synthetic originally and now Merino woolas well) which seem to
slide in the outer shell pants I am using easier.













Layer Two:







That
depends on the outside temps and the level of aerobic action I expect. My
current choices going warm to colder temps are:







Eddie Bauer Front
Point jacket..it is a combo hard shell and soft shell . Very water resistant (my
top was dry in a soaking waterfall that went straight through my pants and
filled my boots to the brim) and very breathable. I am highly impressed with the
details of this garment and the combo of materials used. A
surprising and
almost immediate favorite for cold technical climbing. But there are other lwt
shells that will fit this catagory. (I am currently using Polartech Powershield Pro as my choice in fabric forshells.)



-OR-









Arcteryx Atom Lt Hoody....lightly insulated shell with stretch
vented sides and under the arms. And the Patagonia Nano garments here as well. (both still in use and the best available IMO) Again a surprise, water resistant as well but
not tested to any extreme yet. Very warm for its weight and thickness but useful
in the right temps (cold) for hard climbing because the stretch side panels and
insulated body breath so well.













Worth noting that I have now
cut one full layer from the previous suggestions from even last year's system.
Insulation is used as required in the base layer and in the outer layer. And
most manufactures are now making something similar..Patagonia's Nano series is
another example. Mtn Hardware has one as well. But there is no separate
insulation layer short of the belay jacket. The real insulation is in layer
THREE where the insulation can EASILY be added or just as likely removed to keep
you dry and mobile.







For my pants I have been using the Arcteryx Gamma Lt. for two
winters now. (Patagonia Knifeblade and Guide pants are a big hit currently with me) I did add a set of grommets to use them as a pant gaiter. And no
one more surprised than me that a set of generic long johns and a Gamma Lt.
would be good enough to keep me warm and toasty from -20C to well above freezing
and still breath enough on the "death marches" while toiling and dripping in in
sweat. Only disadvantages I see are they aren't very durable and the lower left
leg could be more tapered if my crampon "wear" is any
indication.









Layer Three:



A Belay jacket chosen for the
degree of warmth required and how much drying will be required.







Listed in amount of warmth is required.
Warm temps to cold and how much moisture I expect:



Mountain Hardware
Compressor Hoody
(Primaloft
1)

*shown here in combo with the Atom Lt @ -20C in the shade* (lots of other
high quality jackets in this category now)



Narrona Hooded Down



Mtn Equipment Nilas



Primaloft 1 garments and some of the Arcteryx jackets are a good choice as well.



As a system that is it...THREE... layers
total. And one generally will be in the pack.







Gloves and
boots?



Maintaining your mobility, cutting down on weight by doing so
allows you to move faster. You can then use lighter weight boots and gloves and
still stay equally as warm or warmer while moving faster with less effort! Add
the advantages of leashless tools and the differences of what you
can get away with for a glove system while still being comfortable is
simply...amazing.



You have to remember it is a SYSTEM. If required I
could carry and use both layer TWO pieces together for extra warmth. I'll do
another post and describe the boot and glove systems I am using with this clothing
combo. Scarpa and La
Sportiva for boots
and Outdoor Research and Mtn Hardware for gloves cover the brand names
here for me.



Bottom line on the field testing? Climbed harder and faster
with less effort and less clothes and in more comfort than ever before in
Canada. Huge success for me.



An after note..



A long time climbing
buddy who on rare occasion reads the blog busted on me for listing all the brand
names I use. I search out the best gear for my own use and buy it at retail. No
one giving this stuff to me. But that doesn't make it the best gear for your
use. I list the manufacturers simply so you can make direct comparison for your
own benefit.



A note on Summer clothing?



Summer temps for me mean even less layers. 2 generally in warm weather and back country trips. My base layer? Generally a tech shirt of some sort. My lower layer? Pants or shorts depending on the temps. Dress light! Dress for success. And keep moving.



My 2nd layer is a Patagonia Sun Hoody generally or a RAB Boreas. The third layer if required will be a wind shell. But I seldom take a wind shell with eitherhoody mentioned, even while spring skiing. By July the shell is generally a stow away item seldom used.



When you start reading in the newest clothing catalogs about "their"newest three layer system, REMEMBERit wasn't anything new even 4 years ago!

Old rock!

It is August after all and I thought we could afford a tiny break from crampons and all this talk of past skiing and ice on the way. Hopefully no one will be too offended. Dbl click for full value.





Couple of friends on "Illusions", 11a,a stellar thin crack climb I did a life time or so ago.. It is a perfect 0 TCU crack. Just scanned in 300 slides and negatives fromclimbing in the 70s and 80s. Only another 500 or so more to go. Got a look at climbs I have forgotten even existed let alone stuff I had done. I'll add a few of the better ones when I get time. Dbl click the photos for full value.

Another thin crack crux and another favorite climb of mine, "Rock 106" .11c face, bolted. Wendy leading again.

This is where I first put on my big boy pants.Max on the 2nd ascent of "Yahoody".11b, Hands, fingers andfists. No one gets left out here.You'll have to excuse the tights :) Six yearspreviousDarcy and Idid the first ascent. A big adventure in *many* ways in 1980. Likely the purest line I have done and some of the most beautifulrock. Back then it wasjeans, a tee shirt and EBs.

The Paper Bicycle: Cool and Practical Transportation

I had the Paper Bicycle on loan from Adeline Adeline in NYC for several months, and have so many things to say about it that it is hard to organise my thoughts. While the unique look is what drew me to this bike initially, it is the handling that left the biggest impression. I will try to cover all the bases.




The Paper Bicycle is Scottish, designed byNick Lobnitz originally for use by the Royal Mail. Over time, the design moved toward something that could be used by everyone, as an "everyday bicycle." The designer describes it as "relaxed and nimble... a machine that just works every time you need it to, and a journey that leaves you comfortable, clean and refreshed." While it is difficult to glean where the name "Paper Bicycle" came from exactly, to me it makes sense because the bike resembles an elaborate origami creation.





The Paper Bicycle's frames are TIG-welded of oversized cromoly steel tubing, handbuilt in Taiwan and finished in Scotland. Notably, the frame has no seat stays and no top tube. Instead, it is reinforced with an elaborate "double chaincase" structure on both the drivetrain and non-drivetrain side.







The structure is an inherent and multifunctional part of the frame that simultaneously gives it sufficient stiffness, contributes to the low center of gravity, creates a number of convenient spots for locking up the bike, acts as a lifting handle, and of course houses the full chaincase.





The joints of the frame are smoothly finished, as is the wide unicorn unicrown fork (typo was too funny to remove). The downtube protrudes slightly past the joint with the headtube, and the rear brake cable is routed through it internally, the tube's opening covered with a lid of sorts with a cutout for the cable. I have seen similar tube joints on a couple of other contemporary bicycles (VanMoof's protruding top tube comes to mind), but the Paper Bicycle's design strikes me as the most elegant and harmonious of the bunch.






The Paper Bicycle is available in one size only and will fit riders 5' - 6'4". It is designed for 26" wheels with fatSchwalbeBig Apple tires. It comes equipped with front and rear Sturmey Archer(roller) hub brakes, fenders, optional dynamo lighting, and it is available as either a single speed or an 8-speed. A number of powdercoat and chaincase panel options are available and the bike is easily customisable with company logos. For detailed specifications, see here.






The handlebars have just enough sweep to them for the hands and wrists to rest naturally, while remaining aggressive and allowing for a great deal of steering control. The diminutive teapot bell works via a trigger mechanism.





The gripping areas are quite long - for me at least a handful and a half each. The rubber grips are finely textured and non-slip. The Sturmey Archer levers provide good leverage and easy to squeeze.







I received the bicycle with a sprung vinyl saddle, though I believe other options are available. In environments where the bike is to be shared, the seatpost is quick release.





The spring-activated kickstand is sturdy and resembles a tailpipe when folded.






The large platform city pedals incorporate non-slip rubber strips and side reflectors.




An integrated rear rack (dubbed the Starship Rack) will soon be commercially available, and I reviewed the prototype here in detail. The rack plugs into the rear of the chaincase structure, takes less than 5 minutes to install, and is strong enough to support a passenger.





I rode the Paper Bicycle on and off for several months, first without and then with the rear rack. Most of my trips were around town, with a handful of longer distance (20 mile) trips to the suburbs. Overall I probably rode this bicycle for 150 or so miles. The riding position felt immediately comfortable, and remained so over longer distances. The bicycle has no toe overlap.



For some of the time during which the bike was in my possession, I left it outdoors for weeks at a time and observed no adverse effects. The bicycle is intended for all-weather conditions and for outdoor storage.







As I adjusted the saddle for my height, the first thing I noticed about this bicycle was the very low bottom bracket. This allows the rider to get full leg extension on the downstroke when pedaling, while also being able to reach the ground while remaining seated - useful in traffic.





This is how much of my foot I can put down while seated, and still have full leg extension on the downstroke. This aspect of the design makes the bicycle safe and easy to handle in stop-and-go traffic, especially for beginner cyclists.






When cycling on trails, a low bottom bracket can mean picking up leaves and twigs. Luckily, they cannot get tangled in the chain on this bike, since the chain is fully enclosed. The Paper Bicycle handles well on and off road, and it is remarkably stable. I normally do not ride no-hands, but this is the only bicycle on which I've been able to do so comfortably. At all times, the bike feels as if it is "unfellable" - it just wants to remain upright. I have written here earlier about the emerging breed of city bikes with mountain bike heritage, and the Paper Bicycleis probably my overall favourite among these.







The bicycle I test rode was a single speed, and I was skeptical about how such a massive upright bike would handle without gears in the greater Boston area. It was not a problem, and I am still trying to understand how the 38x17t gearing can feel so versatile. It was low enough for uphill stretches and high enough for downhill stretches - for me at least, it was the perfect fast and easy gear. It is not for proper hills in mountainous terrain, but it is certainly adequate for the types of short hills one is likely to encounter in urban areas, as well as for long but gentle uphill stretches in the countryside. It also does fine in the headwind: The positioning makes it easy to lean low over the handlebars if so desired.




Overall,I did not expect a bicycle this stately and stable to feel so fast on the road and so maneuverable in traffic. And with the 2" balloon tires, the ride quality over potholes was fantastic. Of all the upright city bicycles I've ridden so far, the Paper Bicycle's handling is possibly my favourite.




Of the bikes I've ridden previously, the ride quality of the Paper Bicycle is most comparable to the Urbana and the Pilen. I found it more comfortable over long distances than the former, and faster than the latter.






If I try to summarise my thoughts about the Paper Bicycleinto pros and cons, they would be as follows: Positives include its ergonomic comfort, speed, stability, durability, low maintenance, transportation-readiness (full chaincase, fenders, rear rack), and aesthetics. And yes, I do love the aesthetics. The lack of lugs and the unicrown fork don't bother me on this particular bicycle, because they work with the overall design; I honestly find it gorgeous. The biggest potential negative for others is probably the weight (35lb as a single speed with no rack or lighting; more as you add stuff), though personally I do not care as long as the bike moves well for me, which it certainly does.





What I do care about is the lighting. While dynamo lighting is an option, it is set up like this which to me seems weird considering that the hollow joint in the front of the bike seems to be just begging for an integrated headlight. If Paper Bicyclemade this type of headlight design happen, that would be out of this world.






I will disclose at this point that I seriously considered buying the Paper Bicycle fromAdeline Adelineat the end of my test ride period. The reason I did not, is that ultimately I was not prepared to let go of my current transportation bike which I also love, and I cannot afford to keep both bikes. But happily, the Paper Bicycle remains in my neighbourhood and it is now in the possession of Josh Zisson of Bike Safe Boston - who likes it quite a bit. Josh is looking into doing something clever with the lighting installation, and I am looking forward to seeing what he comes up with.






The Paper Bicycle is a cool and practical transportation bike, suitable for beginners and experienced cyclists alike. It is certainly different. But it is worth taking note of for reasons well beyond its visual eccentricities.




My sincere thanks to Adeline Adeline for the opportunity to ride and review this bike, to the designerNick Lobnitz for entrusting me with the rear rack prototype and to the Ride Studio Cafe for receiving and setting up the bicycle. The full set of pictures can be viewed here.

Ladies' Bicycles from ANT: 2 Test Rides

At theirOpen Houselast weekend,I had a chance to briefly examine and test-ride two ANT bicycles. This is my first time seeing these bicycles up close and personal, and I hope the reports will be useful to those considering an ANT.



TEST RIDE No.1: The Boston Lady Roadster



The Boston Lady Roadster is a classic loop frame bicycle, available custom built from ANT. This fact in itself is remarkable. If you are wondering why, I invite you to find other framebuilders willing and able to build a loop frame, or even capable of discussing such a thing without laughing. Until recently, most framebuilders' idea of a "women's bicycle" was a diamond frame roadbike painted pink, or with pink handlebar wraps. Now mixtes have began to pop up as well, but for city riding they are not quite as comfortable as the classic curved step-through. The fact that ANT has chosen the loop frame as one of their flagship models carries significant implications for the recognition of women in urban cycling. It also says something about the framebuilder's skill. It is difficult to make that curved top tube, to get the form just right both structurally and aesthetically. So I feel that this frame is one of the most specialised and special things ANT has to offer.



The Lady Roadster is available in many colours, with the option of matching rims and a choice of black or cream tires. The bicycle I tried was in a colour I would describe as "Vermilion" or "Cadmium Red Light" in painters' pigment terms. I must say, ANT knows how to put together colours. The combination of the vermilion frame, matching rims, cream tires and steel fenders is timelessly classic and elegant. At the Open House, someone asked me what I think of putting matching fenders on this bike, and my thought on that was "no". With a bright colour like this, I think it is easy to overdo it and make the bicycle look like a toy. To my eye, the clean steel fenders are a good counterweight to the extravagant frame and rim colour; it's all done just right. If it were my bicycle, I would ask for brown leather accessories and a steel quill stem for a more classic look, but that this is a matter of personal choice.



One of my favourite features of the Boston Roadster is the mount for the dynamo-powered headlight. Welded to the fork, it looks like a little tree branch. Having a low-mounted light like this is better for illuminating the road than having the light on top of the fork or on the handlebars, so this feature serves a practical purpose as well.



This shot may not speak to you immediately, but I wanted to point out the kickstand plate. Not all bicycles are made with one. Also note how neatly all the joints are welded: clean and pretty.



The "full suit" chainring and steel chainguard.



A prototype full chaincase is in the works - to be coated to match the frame colour. I am excited about this development. I have also been discussing dress guards with Mr. Flanigan, and I think you might be seeing something on that end as well pretty soon.



Other than adding a chaincase and dress guards, the only thing I would change about this bicycle if I had a magic designer's wand, would be the style of the fork. I like the straight forkblades here and think that their clean, utilitarian aesthetic is fitting with the overall design. But I wish that the "unicrown" fork (rounded top) could have a flat or "segmented" top instead. This is really a personal preference.



As you can tell by my ridiculous facial expression and firm grip, I liked this bicycle quite a lot and was excited to try it. The owner and I are similar in height, so the frame was just right for me.



The ride felt smooth, stable and effortless, and I love the 8-speed coaster brake hub. The ANT handled similarly to my Pashley once it got going, but was somewhat faster to accelerate and more maneuverable. At least in part this is probably due to the 10lb difference in weight (the ANT being the lighter of the two). Of course this was a very short ride, so I really cannot make far-reching conclusions based on this experience alone. What does it feel like loaded? on hills? in the rain? on a 30-mile ride? That I can't say. But riding it for that short time period made me want to find out. The ANT Boston Roadster is a classic, but with a twist that I would describe as "utilitarian chic".



...



TEST RIDE No.2: The Mixte



I am not certain whether ANT plans to offer the Mixte as a standard model, but they certainly can build it as a custom order. This turquoise mixte belongs to Betsy, Mike Flanigan's parter, and it is fairly unusual. As you can see, it is built with the classic twin lateral stays - but it lacks the rear stays that typically connect the seat tube to the rear drop-outs.



The frame was a size too small for me, but with the saddle raised it was fine. The bicycle does not feel like a mixte to ride - at least if you are accustomed to vintage mixtes, which were designed with road bike and sometimes touring frame geometry. It is much more stable, sturdy, and easier to operate than the typical mixte I am used to, with a relaxed sitting position, wide tires and an 8-speed hub. The bikewas geared low and as a result was able to fly up the hill in a fashion I had not experienced before with hub gears. It was not a road bike, that's for certain. But I wouldn't describe it as a city bike or a "cruiser" either. Town and country? Yes, that seems about right. And with the wide tires, it is probably suitable for a variety of on and off road terrain.



A close-up of the twin lateral stays and a gratuitous shot of my face in the rear view mirror. As on the Boston Roadster, you can see the nice clean welds.



View from the saddle.



Custom rear rack with a wooden base; hammered Honjo fenders. Shimano 8-speed hub.



Dynamo-powered headlight.



Retro bicycle horn on the handlebars. It cannot be denied that ANT has an eye for beautiful eccentricity - a definite plus in my view.



As a self-professed lug fanatic, it is funny that I like ANT'sTIG-weldedbikes so much.The clean welds are an integral part of ANT's "utilitarian chic" aesthetic, and as such they seem perfect just the way they are. It simply looks right. Does this change my obsession with lugs? Well, no. But let's just say that ANT is the exception to the rule.



I hope these descriptions were helpful to those curious about ladies' frame bicycles from ANT.I know that Mike Flanigan is working on some updates to the Boston Roadster models, and I am looking forward to the results.

Camp Muir - Trash, Construction Debris and Poor Weather

Watch out for rockfall between Camp Muir and Ingraham Flats! Lately, the weather has been less than ideal... I.e. rain, wind, clouds, rain, wind, clouds, rain, wind, clouds... Yuck, and more is expected for the next few days...

Things are bumping along without a lot of fanfare. We made it through the past weekend without any major incidents, though some Colorado climbers did find themselves quite cold on the Muir Snowfield. The team of 6 split up while hiking to Muir, leaving 2 behind for a ranger to meet them with hot water and words of encouragement. In the end, the NPS helped them make it to Muir, but I'm still not sure why the other 4 in the party couldn't do the same?

Camp Muir is drawing more attention lately. Like Glacier Basin, rangers have been finding trash and garbage in the public shelter (left by climbers/day hikers) which (of course) is not cool. On the flip-side, climbers and day hikers have been regularly noting the pile of debris outside the public bathroom. That pile is part of the ongoing construction/restoration project from 2005. We hope to see the contractor complete the project and remove the debris later this summer. In the meantime, watch where you step because some folks have been picking up nails in their boots and shoes.

As a reminder, you can fill-out your climbing registration card before you come to the park. Save time by doing this.